Thanks for the sense memories — 2009’s roster of memorable dishes.” Her words follow:

It’s Thanksgiving, time to reflect on the things for which we are grateful: family and friends, good fortune, and – of course – good food. Here are some of the dishes I was most thankful for in 2009. (All things must pass, even the delicious: Call before you head out if your heart is set on a certain selection.)

Steak frites at Beacon Hill Bistro I love this bistro’s bistro for its duality: Both innovative and traditional fare excel here, and I can’t decide which side of chef Jason Bond’s cooking I prefer. His steak frites was just about perfect, from the first whiff as the plate approached to the last slender, golden McDonaldian fry. (For those who must have a chewy cut, abstain. This was a tender strip steak, topped with herb butter.) I could just as easily choose a different dish: a vegetable herb broth with raviolini that was served in the spring. It sounds spare, but the broth was round and lush, the pasta stuffed with bracing green nettles and light ricotta. It couldn’t have been more different from the steak frites, but it was every bit as wonderful.